Meringue is a scalloped hemmed, slightly A-line skirt. There are two skirt pieces--the front and back--plus the facings, and a side invisible zip. I am adding a waistband to the pattern because I think that will be more flattering for my figure type. I am also lining the skirt so that I don't need to wear a slip. The fashion fabric is a navy blue cotton stretch sateen from Joanns and the lining is a fuschia poly lining material. I've decided that I will hem the lining to where the scallop-hem facings end because I don't want to deal with a scallop-hemmed lining.
I tried to do a tissue fitting Monday night and gave up in frustration, which was what prompted me to write the Tissue Fitting is Dead to Me post. Next, I cut out the front and back in cheap broadcloth, sewed the darts and seamed the sides together. Then, I needed to think about the waistband. Colette has a tutorial for making a waistband for Meringue which involves slashing the pattern near the top, adding seam allowances to both pieces and then sewing the top piece as the waistband. I like this idea, but I decided that I wanted the skirt to sit higher on my waist and I didn't want to show more leg. So, I decided to try Gertie's method of making a waistband (tutorial here, but I used the method from her new book which is slightly different). In her book, Gertie says that the waistband pattern can be used with any skirt type, so I thought it would work for my skirt. I sewed the waistband and attached it to my skirt and tried on the skirt.
Several issues showed up right away:
- The skirt had no ease. I wanted it to be fairly fitted but this was a little over the top. To add ease to the skirt, I think I'm going to make my seam allowances 3/8 inch instead of 5/8 inch. That adds 1/2 inch to the body of each side of the skirt resulting in 1 inch of ease over all. I think this will be plenty because the fabric has some stretch to it.
- The waistband gaped. This is likely due to my swayback. I think this problem may be solved by using a curved waistband. Therefore, I'm going to draft a waistband by closing the darts and tracing the top of each pattern piece, adding two inches in height, adding 5/8 seam allowance to all sides, and adding one inch in length to the front waistband piece so that I can make a tab.
- Fabric pooling just above my butt. This is also a swayback issue, I think, and will hopefully be solved by taking a wedge shaped tuck near my waist in the back.